The big guns: Tatev and Noravank monasteries

Since I was in an emotional hurry when travelling from Tehran to Yerevan, I passed by both Tatev and Noravank on my long bus journey north. Indeed, my initial plan had been to break the journey up – but when the time came I didn’t feel like it. I wanted to get to the capital and rest before I continued my sightseeing. That’s why, about a week later, I ended up taking a tour to these monasteries. Continue reading The big guns: Tatev and Noravank monasteries


An autumn stroll between heritage: daytrip to Geghart & Garni

Armenia is undoubtedly famous for its monasteries. There are dozens, of not hundreds, of them dotted around the country, plenty are Unesco listed and the majority is put up in splendid locations. Before I learned about the delicious food, the undeniable flair and the kind people of Armenia, these monasteries were my main reason to visit the country. And so I visited many!

Geghard is an obvious, and perhaps the most popular, day trip fro Yerevan. Damn sure, if you have time for only one, short trip, I recommend this over any other. Continue reading An autumn stroll between heritage: daytrip to Geghart & Garni

So many reasons to love Yerevan

Where do I even start?

As I wrote before, my love for Yerevan was instant and because I stayed in the city so long, my sightseeing there went at a very leisure pace. I spent a lot of time just walking through the streets and sitting on benches in the many parks. But that doesn’t mean I didn’t get any real sightseeing done, either. Continue reading So many reasons to love Yerevan

Dropping the act: recharging in Yerevan

It was cold and well past midnight when I crossed the border between Iran and Armenia. Everything went smooth: I didn’t get any questions, just a bunch of stares from a dozen Iranian soldiers, as one of them kept aimlessly flipping through my passport’s pages. Then I was on my way, walking across the bridge that separates the two countries. Iranian flags adorned one side, the other was bare as paint had weathered.

To be honest, I was quite relieved when I noticed I had reached the Armenian side of the river and was now, officially, free from the Iranian rules. For the first time in three weeks, I was allowed by law to – as a woman – sing out loud in public. And I did. I sang Tailor Swift’s “Look what you made me do” and didn’t give the slightest fuck about the stares I got. Continue reading Dropping the act: recharging in Yerevan

Saying goodbye to Iran

My return to Tehran brought a completely different feeling than my first arrival. After more than 1,5 month on the road, it felt good to return to a familiar place. I liked the fact that I could navigate the metro without having to look at the chart every five seconds. I liked how I could find the way to my hostel without the help of a map, how I knew where to buy water, how the shop owners and hostel staff remembered my face. I felt like I had – in a way – returned home, and it was a lovely feeling. Continue reading Saying goodbye to Iran

Cast away on Hormuz island

“Where is that #$@&%* of a driver?”
“What the hell was he thinking?!?”
“If we have to walk back to the port I’m going to f****** kill him!”

That’s pretty much what the conversation looked like while Merle and I were sitting on the beach, watching our tiny patch of shade shrink by the minute. Continue reading Cast away on Hormuz island


My take on the world and the things I love. Prominently among them: travel, art and the ordinary. I share my discovery of our beautiful world, my self and the arts I'm trying to develop (photography, sketching and writing) in a way that is both honest and poetic. Please join my journey.

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